INTRODUCTION:

Cosmetics have thousands of years of historical background and it is present in almost every prehistoric society that lies on the earth. In ancient time, prehistoric empires like Egypt and Rome had wide range of data collection related to use of cosmetics and pigments.

In prehistoric periods cosmetics were also popular in Middle East, Mongolia and Europe. Various Ancient empires had considered beauty as a sign of holiness and they were used pigments as well as cosmetics to beautify their looks. From Ancient Egyptian era to modern time; there are various experiments have been performed to improvise the outer beauty of human being. From 2 to 3 decennary cosmetic and personal care industry has been changing. New advancements are booming in this area. As some new technologies are entering in cosmetic industry from past few years, area of interest of cosmetic industry is also updating regularly. Cosmeceuticals are gained lots of focus in cosmetic industry from recent years. Today cosmeceuticals are a trending concept in market as well as it is a hot topic in beauty and personal care related research. Cosmeceuticals are considered as one of the leading segment of the herbal centered

Personal or beauty care products are mainly used for improving the outer appearance of body. It refers either personal hygiene or maintains of the personal appearance in good way. Personal care means not only skin care but it may also include oral hygiene, hair care, nail care, etc. Beauty in terms of outer looks is considered for colour, odour and proper shape of body. Beauty refers good quality of physical appearance. Anyone can improve or beautify their Outer appearance easily by using cosmetics, cosmeceuticals and even through performing surgeries. Beauty is one of the important things because physical appearance is main attraction of anybody.

Basic Information:

Pharmaceuticals (drugs):

The FD&C Act defines drugs as "articles intended for use in the diagnosis, cure, mitigation, treatment, or prevention of disease and articles (other than food) intended to affect the structure or any function of the body of man or other animals"^12,20. Any substance or combination of substances which may be used in or administered to human beings either with a view to restoring, correcting or modifying physiological functions by exerting a pharmacological, immunological or metabolic action, or to making a medical diagnosis²⁰.

Nanotechnology^25,38,43

Nanotechnology is one of the innovative areas of science. It deals with the design, characterization, production, and application of materials, devices as well as systems by controlling shape and size at the nanometer scale (1–100nm). Nanotechnology in cosmetic formulation is considered as the newest as well as developing technology available today. Nanotechnology is a multidisciplinary technology. It is applied as well as covers several areas like physics, chemistry, biology and medicine. Size range from approximately 1nm to 100nm is considered as Nanoscale (or Nano range)

Cosmetics:

The Federal Food, Drug & Cosmetic Act (FD&C Act) defines cosmetics as "articles intended to be rubbed, poured, sprinkled, or sprayed on, introduced into, or otherwise applied to the human body for cleansing, beautifying, promoting attractiveness, or altering the appearance"^12,20.

According to the Section 3(aaa) of Drugs and Cosmetics Act, 1940 “Cosmetic” means “any article intended to be rubbed, poured, sprinkled or sprayed on, or introduced into, or otherwise applied to, the human body or any part thereof for cleansing, beautifying, promoting attractiveness, or altering the appearance and includes any article intended for use as a component of cosmetic”^48,49.

Cosmeceuticals^20,34,35

Cosmeceuticals are cosmetic products with bioactive ingredients purported to have medical benefits. The name is a combination of "cosmetics" and "pharmaceuticals". The term "cosmeceutical" has no meaning under the law. While the Federal Food, Drug, and Cosmetic Act (FD&C Act) does not recognize the term "cosmeceutical," the cosmetic industry uses this word to refer to cosmetic products that have medicinal or drug-like benefits. In simple words cosmeceutical is a cosmetic product which is purported to have therapeutic action skilled to affect the skin positively beyond the time of its application.

Nanocosmetics²⁵

According to Fronza and collaborators in 2007 nanocosmetic defined as “a cosmetic formulation that carries actives or other nanostructured ingredients, which has superior properties regarding its performance if compared with conventional products”.

Role of human skin in drug delivery^27,33

Skin is the largest organ of the human body, presenting a total area of approximately 2 m². Human skin composes vital part of the body due to its high surface area. Skin is responsible for the protection, regulation furthermore sensation. The average surface area of human skin is approximately 1.6–1.9m². Dermis, Epidermis and hypodermis are the three main components of human skin. The stratum corneum (SC) layer of human skin as a permeation barrier offers an exclusive delivery pathway for the therapeutic agents along with the cosmeceuticals. The skin illustrates a marvelous vehicle through which these nanomaterials can be investigated for drug delivery, both with respect to active ingredient delivery and efficacy. In topical and transdermal delivery, the active moieties may penetrate via the intercellular, intracellular and transappendageal routes either into the skin matrix or the subcutaneous tissues or subsequently into the systemic circulation, respectively. Nanotechnology assures to transform the diagnosis and treatment of dermatological conditions due to its interaction at the sub atomic level with the skin tissue. Nano technology is used in dermal drug delivery system due to increase stability, mild nature, low quantities of surfactants also its formulation through easy method. Nano technology achieves a higher rate of skin permeation.

Cosmeceuticals^{1,10,14,20,57}

Cosmeceuticals are cosmetic products with bioactive ingredients purported to have medical benefits. The name is a combination of "cosmetics" and "pharmaceuticals"^1,10,20. Cosmeceuticals are scientifically validated, topical dermatological ingredients or preparations (creams, lotions, serums etc.) containing active ingredients that can impart obvious and visible changes to the skin by influencing biological functions of the skin^14,20. Cosmeceuticals improve appearance by providing nutrients required for healthy skin and hair. Ideal properties of cosmeceutical agents are efficacy, safety, formulation stability, novelty, and patent protection, metabolism within skin. Cosmeceuticals are used for a various applications for example, they help to improve skin texture, and they used as anti-aging formulations as well as they protect the structure of keratin ¹⁰. Most of the cosmeceutical formulations use fundamental ingredients such as peptides, retinol, coenzyme Q- 10, ceramides, alpha lipoic acid, alpha hydroxy acids, beta hydroxy acids, Aloe Vera, panthenol, kinetin and vitamins A, C, E. The term cosmeceutical is not approved by the Federal Food, Drug, and Cosmetic Act.

As we know cosmeceuticals are the topical formulations which are neither pure cosmetic, nor pure drug likewise active cosmetics, nutricosmetics, performance cosmetics, functional cosmetics, and dermaceuticals are the alternative terms of cosmeceuticals. The science of beauty and health are making new advancements. In this article we try to summarize all the basic information related to beauty products, an also this attempt has been made to sum up the various types of cosmeceuticals and their regulatory aspects.

-Some widely used skin care cosmeceutical ingredients are listed here ^1,20:

· Tetrahydrocurcuminoids

· Boswellic acids

· Antioxidants

· Retinoid

· Lipoic acid

· Hydroxy acids

· Panthenol

· Vitamin C

· Vitamin E

· Niacinamide

· Allantoin

· Carnosine

· Uric acid

· Furfuryladenine

· Catalase

· Glutathione

· Superoxide dismutase

· Polyphenols

· Glucopyranosides

· Dimethylaminoethanol

· Melatonin

· Botulinum A exotoxin

· Exfoliants

· Progesterone

· Hormones

· Kinetin

· Cysteine

· Depigmenting Agent

Classification of Cosmeceuticals^20,24

All of these terms like active cosmetics, nutricosmetics, performance cosmetics, functional cosmetics, and dermaceuticals, are similar to the term cosmeceutical which follows the same definition i.e. Cosmeceuticals formulations are neither pure cosmetics, nor pure drug, they are hybrid products which lies between drugs and cosmetics²⁰.

-Cosmeceutical products classified into following categories:

A. Skin Care Cosmeceuticals:

a) Sunscreen Agents

b) Moisturizing Agents

c) Skin Lightening Agents

B. Hair Care Cosmeceuticals:

C. Other Cosmeceutical

a) Nail care products

b) Lip care products

NANOMATERIALS^25,30,36

European Commission published a definition of nanomaterial in 2011; According to that definition nanomaterial is defined as a natural material, made accidentally or purposely containing 50% or more of free particles, aggregated or agglomerated with size between 1 and 100nm.²⁵. “Nanomaterials mean an insoluble or biopersistant as well as intentionally manufactured material with one or more external dimensions, or an internal structure, size in between 1 to 100nm”. According to the ISO (2015) a nanomaterial is defined as a material with any external dimension in the nanoscale (i.e. range from around 1 – 100nm) or having internal structure or surface structure in the Nanoscale⁴⁵. According to FDA’s “Guidance for Industry: Safety of Nanomaterials in Cosmetic Products”, Characterization of nanomaterials can form an integral part of the safety assessment. This would consist of proper identification of the chemical composition in addition to impurities, structure, as well as configuration of the nanomaterials used in the cosmetic product. Proper characterization of Physicochemical properties of nanomaterial should include because Physical and chemical properties are the key parameters responsible for their distinguishable behavior from their larger counterparts. Chemistry of the nanomaterials contains its structural formula, constitution of nanomaterials, surface charges, surface tension, and surface reactivity, synthetic as well as photo catalytic properties, its electro kinetics properties (zeta potential), hydrophilicity, lipophilicity. Properties such as Aggregation and agglomeration characteristics, solubility, porosity, measurement of particle size and distribution, shape, surface area per unit mass, aspect ratio, surface topology, crystallinity, density, and stability are responsible for physical behavior of the nanomaterials. Nanomaterials dissolve much more abruptly than large sized materials. Dissolution of nanomaterials is directly proportional to specific surface area consequently silver ions are readily discharged from silver nanoparticles. Nanomaterials prepared synthetically are divided as Carbon based, Metal based, dendrimers, Compostes. Nanocarriers for example nanoemulsions, nanosomesas well as nanopigments have biological effects and hence they are predominately used in nanocosmetics. For that reason nanomaterials used in cosmetics are different from those used in other industries in terms of molecular structure, their mode of use, action, and the way they interact with natural environment.

Nanomaterials used in Cosmetics^{23,24,37,54,61}

The various types of nanotechnology based nanomaterials/nanocarriers are used in cosmetics as well as cosmecutical formulations. Some nanocosmetics formulations are discussed below:

Nanoemulsions^9,10,26

Nanoemulsions are considered as one of the most advanced and mostly used nanoparticulate system for cosmetics. They are oil droplets which are stabilized by a combination of surfactant along with co-surfactant in aqueous dispersion, preserving both the lightness and transparency. Nanoemulsions are also termed as submicron emulsions (SME). These are systems with uniform and extremely small droplet size (20-500 nm). Nanoemulsions are widely used medium for controlled delivery of cosmeceutical formulations such as lotions, shampoo, nail enamels, conditioners and hair serums. Their intrinsic properties like stability, rapid penetration, texture and hydrating power have wide applications in cosmeceutical formulation. Korres’ Red Vine Hair Sun protection is one of the cosmetic products which are available as nanoemulsion in the market. They have high kinetic stability along with high solubilization capacity to make nanoemulsion an attractive nanocosmeceutical formulation. Different types of nanoemulsions such as oil-in-water (o/w), water-in-oil (w/o), or bicontinuous nanoemulsion, can be produced. While formulating and characterizing nanoemulsions, homogenization is the mostly preferred method to achieve the desired size of nanoemulsion droplet. L’Oreal possesses a number of patents on technologies based on nanoemulsions.

Nanocrystals^9,26

Nanocrystal is a particle which has at least, one dimension smaller than 100 nanometres (nm). It is composed of atoms in either a single or poly-crystalline arrangement. Dimension of nanocrystals are ranged between 10 to 400 nm. Lots of atoms are aggregated into a cluster to form nanocrystals ²⁶. Unique properties of nanocrystals, such as bond gap, charge conductivity, crystalline structure, and melting temperature can be customized by controlling their size as well as surface area ²⁶. These nanocrystals can then easily be converted into a topical formulation by first dispersing into water ²⁶. They are relevant for the delivery of scantily soluble active ingredients. Nanocrystal [having rutin (flavonoid) as the active ingredient] was first launched in year 2007 by Juvena. Lancôme’s Ant wrinkle cream, Renergie Microlift also contains nanocrystals ⁹.

Liposomes^37,39,40,41

Liposomes are biodegradable, biocompatible as well as non-toxic in nature and one of the widely used nanomaterials for the cosmeceutical preparations ^{37, 39}. Liposomes have at least one lipid bilayer. The word liposomes originate from Greek words lipo which means fat (lipid) and soma means body that is to say fat and body respectively. Liposomes were first described in 1961 by British haematologist Alec D Bangham ⁴⁰. Liposomes avoid decomposition of the entrapped combinations ⁴¹. Liposomes are used to make the active ingredients bioavailable⁵³. They also help to transfer the active ingredients in deeper layers of the skin⁵³. They are the vesicular structures which contain an aqueous core. Liposomes encapsulate the drug to protect them from metabolic degradation. Liposomes release the active ingredients in a controlled manner. Both the hydrophobic as well as the hydrophilic compounds are suitably trapped and delivered by liposomes. Size of liposomes varies from 20nm to several micrometres. Liposomes have either multilamellar or unilamellar structure. Liposomes help to incorporate antioxidants for example carotenoids, CoQ10, lycopene as well as active components like vitamins A, E, and K. The key component of liposomes is Phosphatidyl choline and it has been used in several skin care cosmeceutical formulations such as moisturizer creams as well as hair care products like shampoo and conditioner because of their softening plus conditioning properties. Vegetable phospholipid constrains high esterified essential fatty acids and is extensively used for topical applications in cosmetics. Vegetable phospholipids and soya phospholipids are widely used because of their capability to form liposomes as well as their surface activity³⁷. Liposomes are widely used because they increase efficacy as well as therapeutic index of drug. Liposome helps to increase stability of drug via encapsulation. They reduce the toxicity of the encapsulated moiety⁴¹. They not only encapsulate but also transport water-soluble ingredients into their polar cavity as well as oil soluble ingredients into their hydrophobic cavity³⁹. Liposomes can also be classified into two categories i.e. Unilamellar vesicles and Multilamellar vesicles (MLV). Unilamellar vesicles are of two types, large unilamellar vesicles (LUV) and small unilamellar vesicles (SUV). Liposomes categorized on the basis of their size and number of bilayers ⁴¹. The methods of preparation of liposome and drug loading are divided in two main techniques that are Passive loading and Active loading. Passive loading techniques have three types of method namely (i) Mechanical dispersion method, (ii) Solvent dispersion method, and (iii) Detergent removal method (removal of non-encapsulated material), respectively ⁴¹.

Dendrimers^{9,10,42,46,47,54}

Dendrimers are highly branched with star-shaped macromolecules. Dendrimers are defined by its important components like (i) central core, (ii) interior dendritic structure, (iii) exterior surface, with functional surface groups⁴⁶. Dimensions of dendrimers are very small; they have diameters in the range of 2 to 10nm. The active ingredients are incorporated both in the internal part and attached on the surface of dendrimers. A number of patents for the use of dendrimers in cosmeceuticals for skin, hair as well as nail application are filed by Companies like L’Oreal, Unilever and The Dow Chemical⁹. They are highly branched nanostructures, which contain a central core, branches, in addition to terminal functional groups. Monodispersity, polyvalence, stability, and the easy functionalization, these are some additional properties of dendrimers that make them interesting delivery systems. Dendrimers are new class of macromolecular architecture. They are being used as nanotechnology based cosmeceuticals. The formulations containing hyper branched polymers capable of forming film when deposited on a substrate which can be used in cosmetics was developed by the company L'Oreal Paris. L'Oreal also has other dendrimers containing formulations. A hydroxy-functionalized dendrimer for producing formulations to be used in various ways such as sprays, gels or lotions are developed by Unilever¹⁰. The overall loading and skin penetration of resveratrol has increased by dendrimeric structure and it has led to the later scale-up as well as commercialization of this dendrimer structure-based product⁴². Although many types of dendrimer structures have been synthesized; researchers have attempted to synthesize novel dendrimers owing to huge structural diversity offered by both organic as well as inorganic chemistry. Determining factor of a dendrimer include its solubility, degradability as well as its biological activity⁴⁷.

Niosomes^9,10

Niosomes are vesicles that made up of non-ionic surfactants, which are biodegradable as well as quite safe. Niosomes have higher Stability than liposomes. They boost the stability of the encapsulated components. Niosomes augment skin penetration as well as they improve the bioavailability of scantily absorbed elements. The first product ‘Niosome’ was launched by Lancôme in 1987⁹. Niosomes and liposomes are similar in structure. Anti-wrinkle creams, skin whitening products, moisturizing creams, hair repairing shampoos as well as conditioners contain niosomes in their composition¹⁰.

Nanocapsules^9,23,26

Nanocapsules are made up of a liquid/solid core in which the active ingredient is positioned into a cavity; this cavity is enclosed by a polymer membrane fabricated of natural or synthetic polymers^9,23. Dimensions of nanocapsules are ranged from 10 nm to 1000nm. Nanocapsules are based on encapsulation technology. Nanocapsules can carry drug payloads for local action or targeted drug delivery²⁶. Depending on the nature of material to be incorporated, different types of nanocapsules are formulated²⁶. They are used as hydrogels and emulgels. Hydrogelis are also involved into the production of numerous personal care products. The active substances which are present in nanocapsules containing lipoic acid are used in prevention a treatment of skin anti-aging. Cosmetic product which contains lipoic acid is better than other formulation by many properties such as credibility, stickiness oiliness, and Sulphurodor. In year 1995, L’Oreal introduced the first nanocapsule based cosmeceutical. Lancôme had used nanocapsule technology to manufacture a product, which delivers 100% botanically pure vitamin E to overcome conditions of lip bleeding.

Nanospheres³⁷

Nanospheres are the spherical particles with core-shell like structure. The size range of nanospheres lies between 10 to 200nm in diameter. In nanospheres, the drug is entrapped, dissolved, attached, or encapsulated to the matrix of polymer³⁷. Into the nanospheres, drug is protected from the chemical as well as enzymatic degradation. The drug is not only physically but also uniformly dispersed in the matrix system of polymer. Nanospheres shows crystalline or amorphous like nature. The nanosphere splits into two types i.e. Biodegradable nanospheres and Non-biodegradable nanospheres. Biodegradable nanospheres contain gelatin nanospheres, modified starch nanospheres, and albumin nanospheres. Non-biodegradable nanospheres contain polylactic acid. Nanospheres are used in skin care products and play a role in delivering active ingredients into deep layer of the skin. Nanospheres are microscopic fragments which play a good role in protection against actinic aging. Skin care products like anti-wrinkle creams, moisturizing creams, and anti-acne creams contain nanosphere nanocarriers³⁷.

Nanosilver and Nanogold^9,23,24,39

Nanosilvers are most preferred nanocarrier/nanomaterial in manufacturing nanotechnology based cosmeceuticals, they occupied 12% of the entire nanosized particle use in cosmetics. Nanogolds are the small gold particles with the diameter of 1 to 100nm³⁹. Nanosilvers are mostly used as preservatives in numerous cosmetic products such as shampoos, toothpastes as well as in preparations for skin acne ²⁴. These both are considered as more valuable nanoparticles in cosmeceuticals industry⁹. Nanogold have significant properties in beauty care such as acceleration of blood circulation, anti-inflammatory, antiseptic, antibacterial as well as antifungal activity, they have ability to improve firmness as well as elasticity of skin, delaying aging process, and vitalizing skin metabolism³⁹. Nanosilver and Nanogold widely used in cosmeceutical formulations like deodorant, face pack as well as anti-aging cream. They also widely preferred in moisturizer cream and facial mask ²³.

Solid Lipid Nanoparticles (SLNs)^{24,26,39,56,58}

SLNs are Nano-sized lipid droplets which contain a solid lipid matrix and they are stabilized by surfactants. SLNs have the ability to protect the encapsulated agents from degradation. Solid Lipid Nanoparticles are sub-micron colloidal carriers and their size ranges from 50 to 1000 nm in diameter. SLNs are composed of dispersed in water or in aqueous surfactant solution and Physiological lipids. SLNs have Better control over release kinetics of encapsulated compounds. Additional Solvent required. SLNs show very high long term stability. SLNs are well-known in the field of cosmeceuticals due to their intrinsic features like controlled-release properties, a reduced size which warrants close contact with the skin; low toxicity; enhanced skin penetration²³. Solid lipid nanoparticles are used as nanocarriers or nanomaterials for cosmetic ingredients. They provide skin enhanced hydration, bioavailability, and stability as well as controlled occlusion. Size of Solid Lipid Nanoparticles (SLNs) can be increased by increasing the micellar concentration⁵⁶. Solid Lipid Nanoparticles (SLNs) combine the advantage of fat emulsions, polymeric nanoparticles and liposomes also⁵⁸.

Nanostructured Lipid Carriers (NLCs)^36,37,

Nanostructured lipid carriers are second generation of the lipid nanoparticles. Nanostructured lipid carriers have been developed to overcome drawbacks associated with SLNs. NLCs are formulated by biodegradable as well as physiological lipids which mainly show very low toxicity. On the basis of which the structure is developed according to the formulation composition and production parameters, NLCs are divided into three types, (i) imperfect type, (ii) amorphous type, (iii) multiple type. The particle size of NLCs is ranged from 10 to 1000 nm. NLCs show higher drug-loading capacity than SLNs³⁷. NLCs have a great advantage over SLNs because of higher loading capacity as well as increased stability³⁶. The very first products containing lipid nanoparticles, namely NanoRepair Q10 cream and NanoRepair Q10 serum were introduced by Dr.Rimpler GmbHIn October 2005³⁷. At this time there are more than 30 cosmetic products which contains NLCs and available in the market³⁷.

Nanopigments³⁶

Nanopigments are considered as the most stable as well as underactive type of nanomaterials used in cosmetic formulations. They are commonly accepted as UV rays blocking agent and also used expeditiously in sunscreens. Nanopigments are also used as components of beauty soaps, gold facial masks, and creams.

Cubosomes^10,23,24,26

Cubosomesare defined as self-assembled continuous cubic liquid crystalline particles. They are formed from certain surfactants which self-assembled in proper ratio with water giving a microstructure of liquid crystals with unique properties. Cubosomes are identified as the slightly spherical dots and their size is ranged from 10 to 500nm¹⁰. Cubosomes can load hydrophilic, hydrophobic, and as well as amphiphilic APIs¹⁰. Cubosomes also has high heat stability as well as have ability to moisturize the skin²³. They have low cost which makes them an attractive candidate for application in the cosmetic industry²⁶. L’Oreal as well as Nivea tries to use cubosomes as oil-in-water type of emulsion stabilizers and pollutant absorbents in cosmeceuticals²⁴.

Ultrasome

They are also used in anti-wrinkle creams. Ultrasome have ability to prevent the damage of collagen and elastin production²³.

Fullerenes

Fullerenes have been used in a number of cosmetic products due to their antioxidant properties. Fullerenes are recognized for their application in the skincare cosmeceutical formulations. Radical Sponge is world’s first fullerene-based cosmetic which was launched in year 2005⁹.

Phytosome

Phytosomes are used in sun-care product to protect the sun-exposed skin by releasing a photo reactivating enzyme which is obtained from a marine plant as well as Anacystinidulans²³.

Transferosomes:

Transferosomes are more elastic than liposomes. They have greater efficiency. It is mostly used in anti-wrinkle creams²³.

Ethosomes

They are soft as well as malleable vesicles. Widely used for enhanced delivery of active agents²³.

Micelles:

Micelles with the size less than 100 nm are used as Nano sized materials. They are used for formulating cosmetic agents which have low solubility as colloidal solutions. They form when surfactants self-arrange in an aqueous environment. This process of formation of micelles happens when the critical micellar concentration of the surfactant is exceeded. They are as similar as liposomes; however, they do not have an inner hydrophilic liquid compartment²⁴.

Carbon Nanotubes^10,36,37,44

Carbon nanotubes (CNTs) are also known as tubular fullerenes⁴⁴. Carbon nanoparticles are considered as one of the key frontiers of nanoscience. Carbon nanotubes are allotropes of Carbon and they are one of the applications of Carbon nanoparticles. Carbon nanotubes are made up of atom thick graphite sheets and these sheets are rolled into cylindrical structures. Carbon nanotubes are either multi-walled or single-walled³⁶. The diameter of carbon nanotubes are ranges from 0.7 to 50 nm and their length is in the range of 10’s of microns. They are very light in weight. Carbon nanotubes (CNTs) are further classified in 3 types: namely, (i) single-walled CNTs, which is made up of single graphene sheet; (ii) doubled-walled CNTs, which are made of two concentric carbon nanotubes; (iii) multi-walled CNTs are consist of multiple layers of graphene tubes. Production methods of carbon nanotubes (CNTs) contain arc discharge method, laser ablation, chemical vapour deposition method, as well as flame synthesis method. Various Patents are filed that show the utility of CNTs in products related to cosmetics such as hair colorants ^10,
37. Carbon nanotubes (CNTs) are good incorporating agents because of their unique electrical, mechanical as well as thermal properties⁴⁴.

Metal Nanoparticles¹⁰

Metal nanoparticles are non-specific anti-bacterial agents. Silver, zinc oxide, gold, or copper based nanoparticles are some common types of metal nanoparticles. Interest of Metal nanoparticles as ingredient of cosmetic formulations is recognized for their antifungal as well as antibacterial properties. Metal nanoparticles can be used as preservatives. Metal nanoparticles are biocompatible, non-toxic, as well as chemically inert. They contain high physicochemical stability. L’Oreal manufactured some cosmetic products with gold nanoparticles with the purpose of enhancing not only firmness but also elasticity of skin and delaying the aging process.

REGULATORY ASPECTS^{20,25,31,36,49,50}

In India, Cosmetic products are regulated through the Drugs and Cosmetics Act, and the legislative body is CDSCO (Central Drugs Standards Control Organization) which is headed by Drugs controller general of India^{49, 50}. Although there is no legal class called cosmeceuticals, this term has found application and recognition to designate the products at the borderline between cosmetics and pharmaceuticals. Cosmeceuticals are not subject to FDA review and the Federal Food, Drug and Cosmetic Act do not recognize the term itself. It is also often difficult for consumers to determine whether ‘claims’ about the actions or efficacies of cosmeceuticals are in fact valid unless the product has been approved by the FDA or equivalent agency. Some experts are calling for increased regulation of cosmeceuticals that would require only proof of safety, which is not mandatory for cosmetics. The regulations of cosmeceuticals have not been harmonized between the USA, European, Asian and other countries. In terms Nanotechnology and its legislation; According to the Guidance for Industry, published in 2014, the U.S. Food and Drug Administration (FDA) has not established regulatory definitions of “nanotechnology,” “nanomaterial,” “nanoscale,” or other related terms. In June 2014, FDA issued guidance for industry titled “Considering Whether an FDA-Regulated Product Involves the Application of Nanotechnology”. The EU regulations define nanomaterials as an insoluble or bio-persistent and intentionally manufactured material with one or more external dimensions, or an internal structure on the scale of 1–100nm. It is necessary that all the nanomaterials must be indicated with the specific word ‘Nano’. REACH Regulation (Registration, Evaluation, Authorization and Restriction of Chemicals) follows the norms of the Regulation 1223/2009 and it is applied to every substance, which includes the nanomaterial. According to REACH, manufacturers, importers and consumers should ensure that manufacture, market or use substances that do not affect the environment and human health. In India, The Ministry of Health and Family Welfare (New Delhi, India), plays a pivotal role in the prevention and control of the health-related hazards. Additionally, the Nanotechnology Sectional Committee, which involves experts affiliated to varied research institutes and organizations, work actively for the standardization of the nanotechnology-based products.

CONCLUSION:

Cosmeceuticals are already widely accepted and applied as well as some new popular features like nanotechnology are emerging in cosmetic industries. Cosmeceutical market is rising and the use of nanotechnology in cosmetics is increasing day-by-day. Nowadays various types of nanomaterials are extensively used in cosmetics industries. However, certain toxic events and some drawbacks have been reported with these nanocosmeceuticals. We have to update our knowledge regarding to nanotechnology based cosmeceutical products. Nanotechnology is beneficial and considered to be the most promising and revolutionizing field for cosmeceuticals. Novel carries used in cosmeceuticals made great convenience as well as effectiveness. Nanotechnology provides huge space to create plus develop new products. New technologies and novel delivery systems have been invented by scientists to give better results. But, at times, wherever generations are intensely involved for their beauty, varied manufacturing forms are challenging and dealing hard to deliver conclusive fulfill necessities of the patients. The universal trend within the cosmetic industry is continuing towards ‘medicinally’ active cosmetics, and in the pharmaceutical industry towards ‘cosmetically’ involved with medicinal products a part of a current ‘life-style’ ideology. In the end it can be said that the era of nanomaterials has actually started in cosmetic industry. In conclusion, Nanotechnology based cosmeceuticals are trending because they have better functionality than any other beauty care products. They have ability to go deep in skin which makes them different from other personal care products.

ACKNOWLEDGEMENT:

We would like to express our special thanks of gratitude Sneha Mali and Niraj Kale for sharing their pearls of wisdom with us and helping us to complete this article.

CONFLICT OF INTEREST:

The authors declare no conflict of interest.

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Received on 08.12.2020 Accepted on 21.07.2021

Research J. Topical and Cosmetic Sci. 2021; 12(2):93-101.

DOI: 10.52711/2321-5844.2021.00013